The Lesser Seen Parts of St. Paul’s Cathedral

Not a lot a of people know this, but if you book ahead you can go on a tour of the St. Paul’s Cathedral Triforium. What is the triforium? Well it isn’t anything in particular; just the out of sight parts of the cathedral like the library and where they keep ‘spare parts’ like pervious pulpits.

One of my colleagues on the City Guides course was kind enough to put together a couple of bookings for us to take a field trip as it were. You usually have to pay for the tour, but the cathedral was feeling generous and said they would let us in for free, nice one!

We got there at 2pm last Friday and met our guide, Chris. He said that the tour usually lasts about 45 minutes, but he was at our group’s disposal for the afternoon and would show us anything we wanted. We all grinned.

Up we went the first set of steps that lead up to the whispering gallery, but stopped just short of it and went off into a little door. This brought us into a small room where we could just about see into the whispering gallery:

Peeking up to the Whispering Gallery

From here we moved into a long corridor where we could see a couple of the buttresses of the cathedral. Structurally important, but completely out of public view. A. W. N. Pugin would have hated it.

Buttresses on the left

Along this space there were various prints of the cathedral printed during various stages of the building work. This one is the first ever official print of it, and you can see it was far from what the finished product looked like, especially the dome and the towers:

The first official print of the Cathedral

Further along were bits of stone work from the early Romanesque cathedral, and the better known, later medieval cathedral. They are labelled up as ‘Norman’ and ‘Gothic’ respectively. Though the medieval cathedral was badly damaged in the Great Fire of 1666 it was still standing when Wren started his work on the present one. The old structure was torn down and some of it used as filler for the new cathedral.

Stones from the Medieval Cathedral

Next stop was the library, which is housed in south transept (the cross bit of the cathedral). It mostly focusses on works about St.Paul’s and any books published by people related to it such as the deans. When we popped in there were two people in doing some research, one on the history of the organs (the musical variety rather than the medical kind) and another doing some research I can’t recall. We had a nice little blurb from the librarian about the space as well.

Bust of Wren, St. Paul's Library

We did a little detour to have a look at the Geometric Staircase. This is featured in Harry Potter: Prisoner of Azkaban, but it’s not this exact one. The cathedral wouldn’t allow the crew to film here but did let them take lots of photos to recreate the staircase on set. It was also used in one of my favourite films, The Madness of King George.

The Geometric Staircase

The steps look like they are driven into the wall to be held up, but that’s not the case. They are holding each other up. The top on step rests on a small niche in the one below it, all the way down to the 88th step.

Originally, Wren and his buddy in all things scientific, Robert Hooke, where going to use this space as a telescope. Anyone familiar with the Monument will know they did the same there. Unfortunately they never got around to getting the lens installed into the top of the staircase and it was never used for gazing at the stars.

The Geometric Staircase

Crossing over from the south side of the building to the north was great. In involved this view of the nave:

Looking down on the nave

One of our colleagues isn’t so great with heights, so she rushed past. But the rest of us probably could have spent an age here. We were directly behind the great west window as well and could look out onto Ludgate Hill and Fleet Street.

The west window

To give you an idea where we were, that box is where the Christmas tree is each year:

The Christmas tree goes where that box is

We went around to the north transept, a mirror of where we were for the library. This is where the trophy room is, and the trophy room is where The Great Model is kept. It was what we were all waiting for, the show piece of the tour:

The Great Model

This is the oak model Sir Christopher Wren had built in 1673 of his first design for St. Paul’s Cathedral. It cost him a cool £500. The idea was that it would be big enough that when he showed it to King Charles II, the king could walk into the model (it being up on a plinth a bit higher than this one) and actually see from the inside how the new cathedral would be laid out. Of course this design was turned down and Wren would have to go somewhat back to the drawing board. Once he did get a design ok’d by the crown and the government he was given permission to alter it as he saw fit. Jackpot. He got the foundation and the walls built up to the design of his liking. By that point, it would have been too expensive to get him to start over again and so Wren made St. Paul’s Cathedral as he wished.

The Great Model

To give it some scale, here’s me beside the Great Model:

365-52 The Great Model - it's bigger than me.

Shame that we couldn’t get inside it. Ah well, can’t win them all. At that point, it was the end of the official tour. Our guide said if we wanted though we could go have a look at the choir and the crypt. And so we merrily did. We got to sit in the seats of the choir and here all about the changing decor of it, how it was fairly light in the early days. The Victorians thought it drab and Victorianised it. After damage to the choir in WW2, the rebuilding work was a bit more toned down and is what we see today.

We also learned that the organs dotted around the cathedral are controlled by pneumatic pipes. This allows more than one organ to be used, and the keyboard console controlling them to be moved about. When we were crossing the top of the nave we could see one such organ that was installed in 1977 for the Queen’s Silver Jubilee. Apparently this one is super loud and Her Majesty had actually asked for the volume of it to be lowered. To be on the safe side, they simply don’t use it when she’s in the cathedral. Fair play.

We then went down to the crypt and had a look at Wren and his family, and of course Nelson and Wellington. Something that I proudly already knew was that Nelson’s sarcophogus that is atop his monument was originally intended for Cardinal Wolsley way back in the 16th century. It was acquired by Henry VIII when he took posession of the Cardinals goods and it was moved to Windsor to be put in storage. There it stayed until 1805 when something was needed for Nelson. What luck we had this knocking about Windsor Castle completely un-used.

Something I didn’t know that was that during the funeral service, Nelson’s coffin was set upon a platform which made it look like it was on the floor of the cathedral (right under the center of the dome). At the end of the service, the platform was cranked down, and with it Nelson’s coffin seemingly sank into the floor, down into the crypt. Nobody was expecting that and it was quite the spectacle.

At this point the cathedral was closing and we were being reminded we had to get out. We thanked our guide profusely. What was meant to be a 45 minute tour, turned into about 3 hours of top notch guiding. You may not get that when you book, but still take a look at going on a Triforium Tour. It’s worth it.

For more photos, head on over to my Flickr page.

The Whistling Kid of Woolwich

For the first time in ages I went further east than the Peninsula retail park and headed for Woolwich. Namely to go to Wilkinsons there because they are great for cheap home-DIY stuffs. Anyhoo.

Wandering the shop and I come around the corner to a couple with one kid in a pram and another, slightly larger kid in tow. I grab my adhesive hooks and poster frame I’m looking for and move along.

While in the stationary area they encroach on me again. And now the upright kid has a whistle. And it is possible the world’s loudest, shrillest whistle. And she is giving her all. And her parents seem utterly indifferent to it. Meanwhile me and all the other punters are grimacing at the piercing of our ears.

Everywhere I go in the shop, this family follow me. Right up to the tills. A breakthrough happens when another till is opened and I high tail it, hoping to leave the Whistler behind. No dice. I make it out side and start hearing that distinctive, drilling sound coming up behind me.

Quick! To the Tesco across the street! Blast, the crossing light goes red. And oh god they’re beside me now, kid still playing the hell out of that thing. A break in the traffic and I nip across the street. Yes! Looks like they are going another way.

That giant Tesco will destroy us all!
That giant Tesco will destroy us all!

I (somewhat happily) have a look around the new, massive Tesco. I think it’s the noisiest one I’ve ever been in. However, it is big enough that it will probably have perogies so I make for the refrigerated section.

No. No, what is that sound? Hells bells, that kid is in here somewhere, and has clearly not run out of wind or interest in blowing that damn whistle. Come around a corner and there they are. Run. Run for the tills.

I made it out without them following me. And I got perogies, so win win. But what a terrible day to not have any headphones on, let alone ones that keep the outside outside. Maybe this is the sort of stuff I’m missing out on all the time.

With that notepad, I couldn’t resist.

Yesterday was the Group IT Away Day for work. For it we hiked out to Wotton House Hotel in Surrey which is where John Evelyn was born in 1620. I’m not sure it looks much like it did then. Mostly boring hotel interior with flashes of old bits of architecture that I could spot.

At any rate. There was a note pad in my room that said ‘Pen Your Thoughts’ across the top of it. I couldn’t resist doing something to maybe give the cleaning staff a chortle.

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On the night stand.
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On the desk.
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Beside the TV.
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On the other night stand with the phone.
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In the bathroom.
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And a useful note also on the desk.

Go for a Burrito – Tortilla on the Strand

It’s no secret that I have a soft, smushy spot for burritos. I had my first one only 2-some years ago and oddly enough can’t recall from where. But since then loads of places have popped up in London serving up rice, beans, meat, and topping concoctions.

I’ve been to most so I thought, hey I should do some reviews. My usual haunt hasn’t been up to standards so I’m going to mix it up a bit. I had the most unpleasant burrito I’ve ever had this past week and really at that point I thought I’d share my experiences. Not sure if I can go back to that one for the sake of a review though.

We start off this week with the newest spot to open up near work: Tortilla Mexican Grill in the Strand. Like most Mexican places, Tortilla is a local chain and this spot is their newest. I knew about a few of them but upon checking their website it turns out they have about double the locations I thought they did.

Anyhoo, on to the noms. Tortilla are unique in that they have a medium and a large burritos on offer. The mediums go for £4.95 and the large for £5.95. Pretty standard price there on the large, though a pence cheaper than most. Thing is though, they cram so much into a medium size that I wouldn’t even bother with the large one. Their drinks are also a bit cheaper than most other places. A bottle of water is £1 and drinks, both soft and not so soft, go up from there.

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Let’s do this.

Here’s what I ordered:

  • Tortilla (steamed – this is important)
  • Coriander rice (this is also important)
  • Black beans
  • Chicken
  • Cheese
  • Sour cream
  • Half a scoop of mild salsa
  • Medium salsa
  • Lettuce

Why only half a scoop of mild salsa? Well for starters I’m not a huge tomato fan, just a lil bit goes a long way. Also a lot of water comes up in that scoop and a watery burrito isn’t nice.

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A few bites in, so far so good.

The chicken here is tasty, but not the tastiest out there. Though it doesn’t have as many charred bit as other places. So a nice happy medium. Steaming the tortilla makes all the difference. A dry one just isn’t as nice and doesn’t fold over very well. My pro-tip is to avoid the Mexican/tomato rice and go for the coriander stuff. The flavour from the other totally overpowers all the other ingredients in there. They were a bit too heavy on the rice with this one but there are worse things that could happen.

Remember what I mentioned about not wanting a watery burrito? Well despite my best ordering efforts this happened about half way through:

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Leaky-deaky. This is going to get worse before it gets better.

Oooh boy. Look at that trail of watery mess. One of the downsides of them stuffing a medium burrito so well is that it isn’t as folded over as it should be and leaks like this are common ’round Tortilla. I soildered on but once I got near the bottom things weren’t looking good:

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(Greasy) water water everywhere.

Now had I been hungrier I may have keep plwoing through the soggyness, but I just didn’t have it in me and gave up shortly after the reveal. Your mileage my vary depending on your tolerance levels. This is not to say I didn’t enjoy it though. Overall it was pretty good. Here’s a handy little break down:


  • Was tasty
  • Chicken was nicely grilled
  • Good value
  • Not padded out with lettuce (as some places do)

And a few cons for this visit:

  • Was charged for a large when I ordered a medium burrito
  • Bit heavy on the rice
  • Sprung a leak half-way through eating

All in all, not too shabby. Initially I didn’t really care for Tortilla at all. Mainly I was going wrong with the rice but also some of their other locations don’t get the steaming of the tortilla quite right and it ends up being sort of sticky. These guys are doing alright with it.

Overall – 3 sombreros out of 5, would burrito again.